Mr. Aqua Super Zeolite

Mr. Aqua Super Zeolite

The most advance aquarium product

Zeolites are minerals, and consist mostly of silica and aluminium, plus other elements like Sodium, Potassium, Iron, and Manganese. The most interesting feature of Zeolites is their crystal structure. You can think of Zeolites as a sponge with holes of different sizes. The small holes are the size of single molecules, about one billionth of a meter. The size of these holes depends on the chemical composition of the mineral. There are hundreds of different Zeolites known in nature, and also many different synthetic Zeolites. What makes these minerals so special is their ability to absorb specific compounds. Depending on their composition, they preferentially absorb different compounds. This means that they are more likely to absorb one compound more than the other if both are available. The holes to which a compound binds are not empty, but rather filled with sodium or potassium. As soon as a preferred compound is available, another compound, usually--sodium or potassium, is given off, and the compound will be absorbed. This reaction, the replacement of one ion for another ion, is called ion-exchange.

The diagram on the left represents fresh Zeolite. Sodium (Na) and Potassium (K) ions are ready to be exchanged with other positively charged ions. The diagram on the right represents the release of Sodium and Potassium in exchange for Ammonium ions.

As already mentioned, Zeolites have a very porous structure. Under the microscope, they look almost like a sponge. This porous structure creates a large surface area for bacteria to settle. As the ammonium is adsorbed by the crystal structure, the bacteria living on the Zeolite get their food delivered to their doorstep. To enhance the filtration capacity, a carbon source is added, in most cases not directly into the filter, but into the aquarium.

Therefore, by adding a carbon source, all bacteria in the tank receive some additional food. But as those bacteria that sit on the Zeolite get the ammonia much easier and in much greater quantity than others in the tank, they can make much better "profit" from the carbon addition. To speed up the starting of these filters, some companies offer bacterial starter cultures, although their usefulness is debatable.

All these reactions can only take place when a carbon source is added. Without a carbon source, the filter would first only absorb ammonium and nothing else. It would be a simple ion-exchanger. After a few days to weeks, chemoautotrophic bacteria would settle on the ammonium-loaded Zeolite and oxidize it to nitrate, as indicated in the following reaction:

NH4+ + O2 + 3OH-= NO32- + 2 H2O

Therefore, such a filter would actually produce nitrate, and its use for aquaria would be rather limited! When I said previously that the ion-exchange process itself is not of much importance in the marine aquarium I may have been a bit too simplistic. Over the last year or so, many people actually have used this effect in a very elegant way. In new tanks, a little powerhead with a cartridge full of Zeolite can have a very positive effect on the stability of the tank. As ammonium is oxidized to nitrite, a reduction of ammonium levels reduces the nitrite peak in the start-up phase considerably. As the excess ammonium is taken out of the system before it is oxidized and starts causing problems, the Zeolite filter acts as a buffer which stabilizes the nitrogen cycle in the tank. In such a case, the Zeolites have to be changed every few days and no carbon source is added.

In the “normal” Zeolite filters with the addition of a carbon source, these filters can run for extended periods of time because ammonium is constantly removed from the minerals by the combined efforts of autotrophic and heterotrophic bacteria. After a while, the Zeolite is exhausted and needs to be replaced. If the bacteria remove the ammonium from the minerals why doesn't the filter run forever? First of all, the bacterial films will slowly clog up the pores, thereby reducing the adsorbing capacity, secondly other ions will also be adsorbed onto the Zeolite. As the bacteria do not remove these ions (at least not preferentially), they will slowly become enriched and therefore reduce the number of places available for adsorbing ammonium. In industrial applications Zeolites are often recycled. This is definitely not an option for the home aquarist, as it involves the use of highly aggressive liquids. If you try to do this in your kitchen you endanger your family's health and that of other people! Saving money this way is just downright foolish. If you decide to set up a marine tank, make sure you can afford to maintain in properly.

The diagram on the top represents bacteria taking advantage of the locally high concentration of Ammonium trapped in the Zeolite and breaking it down to Nitrogen gas. The diagram on the bottom represents well fed, nutrient rich bacteria that have reached the end of their lives drifting from the Zeolites, destined to be skimmed out of the tank.

Mr. Aqua Super Zeolite

The most comprehensive filter media series

Exclusively Distributed by:

Mr. Aqua Aquarium System Philippines
Email: boniface_lan@yahoo.com

http://petcity2008.blogspot.com/

Mr. Aqua Biological Ball

Mr. Aqua Biological Ball
The most advance aquarium product


Biological filtration is the process of converting toxic nitrogen to less toxic forms of nitrogen. The process involves several stages, and begins with the introduction of nitrogen into the aquarium in the following ways:

1) Urea and fecal matter produced by the fish.
2) Protein from decomposing fish food.
3) Protein from decomposing fish and/or plants.

It is equally important to know that Ammonia is a by-product in the first conversion. Ammonia is very toxic to fish, and the higher the PH, the more toxic the ammonia. This is why ammonia poisoning occurs with such frequency in brackish, African Cichlid, and especially salt water tanks, and why testing for ammonia is so critical. The recommended PH is 6.8 - 7.0 for fresh water incorporates this important concept. Ammonia is converted to nitrite by nitrosomonas bacteria. These bacteria live primarily in filter mediumdue to the great amount of surface area


Nitrite, although less toxic than ammonia, can wipe out a tank if the level is high enough. Nitrite is converted to nitrate by nitrobacter bacteria. Like the nitrosomona bacteria, these live primarily in the filter medium. High nitrite levels, particularly when long term, are detrimental to the aquarium environment and the fish. In the normal aquarium, nitrate is either removed from the aquarium by water changes or used by plants and algae as food.


The nitrifying bacteria require significant time to reproduce and establish themselves in a new aquarium. A brand new aquarium does not have sufficient nitrifying bacteria to support more than a few small fish, and this is especially important to the new hobbyist.


Patience when adding new fish MUST be exercised to avoid deadly ammonia or nitrite levels. It normally takes anywhere from 4 to 8 weeks for enough nitrifying bacterial to develop. Test kits should be kept on hand by all hobbyists so they can monitor the ammonia and nitrite and nitrate levels daily in newly set up aquariums. As the aquarium becomes older and better established, many fish can build up a tolerance to higher ammonia, nitrite and/or nitrate levels. Under these conditions, careful daily monitoring and control is necessary only when new fish are introduced.

Mr. Aqua Biological Ball

The Most advance Filter Media Series

Made in Japan

Exclusively Distributed by:
Mr. Aqua Aquarium System Philippines
Email: boniface_lan@yahoo.com
http://petcity2008.blogspot.com/

Mr. Aqua Black Peat Granules

Mr. Aqua Black Peat Granules

The most advance aquarium products

Advantages:
1. lower pH and hardness.
2. Doesn't change the conductivity.
3. Releases beneficial extract that are advantageous to fish.


Disadvantages:
1. The water must be tested frequently.
2. Not suitable for fish that need hard water and high pH level.
3. Not suitable for some plants requires high pH level.

Mr. Aqua Black Peat Granule

The Most Comprehensive Filter Media Series

Exclusively Distributed by:

Mr. Aqua Aquarium System Philippines
Email: boniface_lan@yahoo.com

http://petcity2008.blogspot.com/

Mr. Aqua Bio Ceramic Ring

Mr. Aqua Biological Filter Bio Ceramic Ring


Features:
- high performance with small quantity of materials
- simultaneously breakdown nitrites and reduction of nitrates
- keep fish healthy
- for salt and fresh water
- long lasting


PRICE:
1. Mr. Aqua Bio Ceramic Ring 0.2 liter = P100
2. Mr. Aqua Bio Ceramic Ring 1.0 liter = P350
3. Mr. Aqua Bio Ceramic Ring 3.0 liter = P1100
4. Mr. Aqua Bio Ceramic Ring 5.0 liter = P1500

Bio Ceramic Ring

Exclusively Distributed by:

Mr. Aqua Aquarium System Philippines
Email: boniface_lan@yahoo.com
ttp://petcity2008.blogspot.com/

Made in Japan

Japanese Substrate

JAPANESE SUBSTRATE

Advantage:

1. made from natural volcanic ash soil

2. water plants roots grow vigoruosly

3. stablize pH (6.5 to 6.8) up to 12months

4. Decoloration (crystal clear water) up to 12months

5. enhance bacterial growth

6. absorb toxic chemicals

7. lower GH

MR. AQUA water plant activated soil

a. 1.2kg pack

b. 8kg pack

Marfied Contro Soil

a. 3liter pack

b. 10 liter pack

Marfield Contro Soil III

a. 2liter pack

b. 8liter pack

GEX SubstratePlanted tank substrate

a. 2kg pack

b. 8kg pack

GEX Planted and Shrimp tank substrate

a. 2kg pack

b. 8kg pack

GEX pure black substrate

a. 2liter pack

b. 8liter pack

Marfied Contro Soil

Actual demo

close up

Mr. Aqua Activated Soil

Close up

GEX Plant substrate

GEX Shrimp and Plant Substrate

Actual Packaging

Exclusively Distributed by:

Mr. Aqua Aquarium System Philippines
Email: boniface_lan@yahoo.com
http://petcity2008.blogspot.com/

Mr. Aqua 3D background

Mr. Aqua 3D background

Grade A 3D background

made from high quality Polyurethane resin (not styropor)

Tree Trunk 3D back ground

Tree bark 3D backgound

Rocky 3D back ground

Volcanic Rock 3D background

Mr. Aqua Aquarium System Philippines
Email: boniface_lan@yahoo.com

http://petcity2008.blogspot.com/

Getting The Gas Dissolved In The Water

Getting the gas dissolved in the water
Source: http://www.qsl.net/w2wdx/aquaria/diyco2.html

Many methods have been described on what the best way to dissolve the CO2 gas into the tank water. This is the critical point in determining the effectiveness of a DIY system and the reason why many feel that their experience with DIY systems was a bad one. Since the amount of CO2 available in a yeast system is limited by biological production, it is important to get most, if not all, the CO2 produced dissolved into the water. Skimp here, and you have wasted your time, not to mention CO2 gas.

The simplest, and least effective, method is to run the tube into the tank and simply let the gas bubble into the tank, or through an air stone. I do not recommend this method at all. Since most of the CO2 gas simply rises to the surface and is lost.

Next, many have suggested placing this tube at the inlet of a canister filter and allowing the impeller to munch up the gas. While it is effective in dissolving the gas, I do not like this method either, for two reasons. First, the CO2 bubbles can produce cavitations of the impellor, which could cause it to vibrate, making noise and possibly damage the mechanism. Second, some of the components in the impellor use rubber fittings, which could be broken down over time by the high concentrations of CO2 gas and carbonic acids present.

A better but slower method is the use of what is called a CO2 bell. Simply put, this is a hemispherical shaped vessel of some kind, inverted and the CO2 is allowed to fill up inside. The contact area of the gas is increased and passive diffusion of the gas is increased. The drawback of this is if the surface area is not high enough, so that diffusion rate exceeds gas production, the bell will fill with gas and any additional bubbles will run out the side and travel up to the surface and be lost. While this is a draw back, many aqaurists have have had reasonable sucess using this method of gas diffusion. These are also very simple to construct. Many have been constructed from cutting off the tops of one-liter soda bottles, petri dishes, cups, or any hemisphercal shaped object. I would recommend using a material or object that is transparent, to allow for easy viewing

Another method is a diffuser. Two versions of diffusers exist. One is device that increases the time the bubble is in contact with the water. Usually by presenting the bubble with a long spiral course it has to travel. In the image to the right is one example of this type of spiral diffusion method, the Econo Aqualine 500 available from AquaBotanic, and others. The manufacturer claims, "The special construction allows a very high CO2 diffusion rate and automatically removes any false gasses. The reactor is sufficient for an aquarium up to 125 Gallons". This unit is mounted on the inside of the aquarium.



Another diffuser type is a glass diffuser. This is a device that increases the surface area of the CO2 gas by reducing the size of the bubbles substantially. This is a proven method and can be very effective in allowing all of your CO2 gas to be dissolved. In the image to the left is version of this type of diffuser made by Aqua Design Amano Nature Aquarium Goods, the company led by the legendary aquatic artist Takashi Amano. The gas is fed into the tube at the rear, brought down to the bottom and forced against the glass diffusser plate (the black line running in the middle). This plate has thousands of pores which the gas passes through, and once it has done this, the bubbles released through the top of the unit are extremely tiny. This all glass unit is probably the very best of its kind, and also very expensive since it is handmade in Japan. Other manufacturers make similar products. The only drawback of this method is that the plate, usually made of sintered glass, can clog and may need regular maintenance. Other than that singular drawback, this is a proven method of diffusion. The drawbacks of both versions is that their mechanical sophistication do not allow themselves to be easily homemade, and commercially produced products would have to be purchased. There are many commercially available choices, in a wide range of prices, so finding one that works in your budget would not be to difficult, if you decided on going this route.




Mr. Aqua Co2 Counter and Co2 Diffuser
Mr. Aqua Aquarium system
Made in Japan

CO2 Counter:
accurate measurement of CO2 supply, good for CO2 sensitive plants.

CO2 diffuser:
enhance dispersal of CO2 tiny bubbles to your aquarium

Mr. Aqua N001: Co2 Counter (for all sizes)
Mr. Aqua N002: mini CO2 diffuser (good for tank < align="center">N001: Co2 counter

CO2 Tank and Regulator

Plants and CO2
Source: http://www.qsl.net/w2wdx/aquaria/diyco2.html

Carbon is the fundamental element that all life on this planet is based. Plants are no exception. Since plants have no way of getting to their food sources, nutrients have to be obtained from their surrounding environment. Plants use many macro and micronutrients, carbon dioxide (CO2) being one of the primary macronutrients. In an aquarium the limiting factors are most likely to be (in order): light, CO2, micronutrients (trace elements), and macronutrients. Micro and macronutrients are usually supplied in adequate quantities by fish waste and the addition of fertilizers.

Plants use a process known as photosynthesis to produce the carbohydrates they need for life. Photosynthesis requires light for energy and CO2 to drive the chemical reactions. The process of photosynthesis requires a specific light energy threshold. In other words, there is a point where light has reached a specific intensity to start photosynthesis. If the light is not bright enough, photosynthesis will not occur. Beyond that threshold and up to some high light level, photosynthesis will run faster and faster. According to known practice, when light levels exceed two watts per gallon, supplementary CO2 is required for most aquariums.

In our planted aquariums, CO2 is present without it being added my mechanical means. Fish respire CO2 from their gills. Also in an aerated tank, CO2 from the atmosphere is dissolved in the water. This effect is known as atmospheric equilibrium. In nature though, CO2 levels are usually higher than can be explained by animal respiration or atmospheric equilibrium, and aquatic plants have evolved to this higher concentration of dissolved CO2 in water. Carbon dioxide rich groundwater often feeds the streams and natural CO2 concentrations up to several hundred times atmospheric equilibrium are common. In general, aquatic plants like to see approximately a concentration of 10-15ppm of dissolved CO2 in their environment. CO2 levels from atmospheric equilibrium are generally around 2-3ppm. (ppm stands for part per million). As you can see, CO2 injection is essential for vigorous plant growth, and even more so with higher light levels.

It is a common misconception that water can hold only so much dissolved gas and adding CO2 will displace oxygen. This is not true. As a matter of fact, if enough CO2 and light is present to enable vigorous photosynthesis, oxygen levels can reach 120% of saturation. Even at night, when the plants stop using CO2 and start using oxygen, the oxygen levels will stay about the same as a typical non-planted aquarium. So reports of people having fish at the surface gasping for air is not necessarily a result of high CO2 levels, but instead a lack of oxygen in the water is probably the culprit.


The relationship between light and CO2 levels is important. The diagram at the right explains it conceptually. At low light and low CO2 there is not much energy to play around with for up or down-regulation of the pools of Chlorophyll or enzymes contained in the plant. If we then add a little more CO2 to the system the plant can afford to invest less energy and resources in CO2 uptake and that leaves more energy for optimizing the light utilization - Chlorophyll can be produced without fatal consequences for the energy. Hence, although we have not raised the light, the plant can now utilize the available light more efficiently. Exactly the same explanation can be used to explain why increased light can stimulate growth. with more light available, less investment in the light utilization system is necessary and the free energy can be invested into a more efficient CO2 uptake system so that the CO2, which is present in the water, can be more efficiently extracted.

Providing macro and micronutrients to plants is easily done with commercially available fertilizers. It is often a more difficult and expensive task to provide adequate light over the plant aquarium. Both numerous fluorescent light and halide lamps will produce sufficient light if supplied with effective reflectors, but in deep aquaria (more than 20 inches) is very difficult to offer enough light to small light demanding foreground plants. Based on known experiments, I suggest commencing CO2 addition before any other action is taken! I believe that even at very modest light intensities you will experience a conspicuous change in plant performance in your aquarium. The exact amount CO2 may always be discussed but concentrations from 10-15ppm will only improve plant growth. You will probably see that plants, which were barely able to survive before now thrive in the presence of CO2. These conclusions were derived from work conducted by Ole Pedersen, Claus Christensen, and Troels Andersen.


Mr. Aqua Co2 Tank

• soild aluminum bottle with metal hook
• made from aluminum alloy - anti corrosion bottle against acid, alkaline and oxidation
• equipped with a regulator and valve.
• easy to refill

Sizes available: 0.52 liter, 0.6 liter, 1.0 liter, 1.45 liters

Price:
0.52 liter with CO2 regulator
1.0 liter with CO2 regulator
1.45 liter with CO2 regulator

Exclusively distributed by:

Mr. Aqua Aquarium System Philippines
Email: boniface_lan@yahoo.com

Wholesale are welcome!!

Crystal Red Shrimp

Crystal Red Shrimp
genus: caridina
reference: wikipedia/ planetinvert

Discovery
In 1996, Japanese Mr. Hisayasu Suzuki who developed the Crystal Red Shrimp. a mutation from Cardina cantonensis species (a red form among the usual black form offspring). it is a autosomal recessive red mutation of the normal bee shrimp.

The variety has gained wide popularity since in Japan and worldwide and has been further refined by the founder and other breeders to produce specimens with larger white patches and intensified red. In Japan they are often known as Red Bee Shrimps or Crystal Red Shrimp. The black striped variety is commonly called Bee Shrimp. The more white and intense color they have, the higher the Crystal Red Shrimp grade becomes.



Basic Care
They grow up 2.5cm in size and live in temperatures up to 27 °C, surviving best at 20–25°C (68–77°F) with a pH level of 6.5–7.2 and TDS 150-220. The shrimp are quite sensitive to fast changes of the water parameters, especially when it comes to nitrogenous waste, or nitrite. Soft, slightly acidic water is the ideal breeding environment

Feeding

Crystal Red Shrimp is not too different from other algae eating shrimps. It is a scavenger and an algae eater. Hobbyists like to keep it sufficient in iodine and nutrition, but at the same time do not to spoil the water since Crystal Red Shrimp is sensitive to nitrate. The foods commonly used are pre-made Crystal Red Shrimp food, spinach, bloodworm, seaweed, and algae wafer.

Sexing
Crystal Red Shrimp Females have a plump under belly, males are generally smaller than females



Breeding
They reach adulthood at approximately 5 to 6months. They breed in soft acidic water with temperature 26 degree celsius and below.

Crystal red shrimp maybe crossbreed with other bee shrimp as well as bumblebee shrimp and it can cross breed with tiger shrimp, which are also of the Caridina genus



Grading CRS

Grade S
3 white bands excluding tail, & solid red band signifies S Grade

middle red section with 2 red dashes on lower half signifies TigerTooth

middle red section in a pseudo "v" shape signifies V-Type

Grade SS

SS Grade Bee Shrimp "Hinomaru"

majority solid white coloration, black circle on mid-back signifies Hinomaru

SS Grade Crystal Red Shrimp "No Entry Sign"
(circle on mid-back with white dash signifies No-Entry)

majority solid white coloration. red circle on mid-back signifies Hinomaru

Grade SSS
SSS Grade Bee Shrimp
(almost all white except for red markings on the head. All white body

Full White


PRICE:

Crystal Red Shrimp/Bumble Bee Shrimp

Grade A-S: P350

Grade SS: P550

Grade SSS: please pm

Full White: P550

Available at

PET CITY hobby specialist

#20 Bike Center, Cartimar Commercial Complex

Pasay City, Philippines

Tel: +63-2-5564332

Fax: +63-2-2521253

Email: petcity2008@yahoo.com

Wholesaler are also welcome!!!